Changing the BM's valve.

How to get most out of brewing with your Braumeister? Help others and share your tips/best practices.

RE: Changing the BM's valve.

Unread postby dinnerstick » Thu Feb 27, 2014 7:08 am

Beerkench wrote:I mailed them Dinnerstick and the valve is nyckel plated steel. I guess we need to keep on searching for that piece.

good job! i never heard back from the ones i emailed about the threading
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RE: Changing the BM's valve.

Unread postby Batz » Thu Feb 27, 2014 9:47 am

The gas industry, chemical industry, power stations, all these use these fittings by the ship-load. I can't believe can not source them.
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RE: Changing the BM's valve.

Unread postby cpa4ny » Thu Feb 27, 2014 10:39 am

Beerkench wrote:I mailed them Dinnerstick and the valve is nyckel plated steel. I guess we need to keep on searching for that piece.


Nickel-plated steel should be quite corrosion-resistant, as long as the nickel coating is kept intact.

Once the new valve is screwed in, the nipple shouldn't suffer any potential nickel-damaging knocks.

I understand that nickel-plated steel is used widely in marine / oil-field applications.

http://www.electroless-nickel-plating.co.uk/applications-marine-coating-corrosion-protection-aerospace-metals.php
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RE: Changing the BM's valve.

Unread postby Dicko » Thu Feb 27, 2014 9:05 pm

cpa4ny wrote:
Beerkench wrote:I mailed them Dinnerstick and the valve is nyckel plated steel. I guess we need to keep on searching for that piece.


Nickel-plated steel should be quite corrosion-resistant, as long as the nickel coating is kept intact.

Once the new valve is screwed in, the nipple shouldn't suffer any potential nickel-damaging knocks.

I understand that nickel-plated steel is used widely in marine / oil-field applications.

http://www.electroless-nickel-plating.co.uk/applications-marine-coating-corrosion-protection-aerospace-metals.php


I would be very surprised if it is approved for use in the food industry where the product comes into contact with the fitting.
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RE: Changing the BM's valve.

Unread postby cpa4ny » Fri Feb 28, 2014 1:32 am

Hi Dicko - here's what BYO has to say on brewing metallurgy:

http://byo.com/stories/projects-and-equipment/item/1144-metallurgy-for-homebrewers

They talk about nickel-plated brass, but don't mention nickel-plated steel.

Do you see any potential issues?
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RE: Changing the BM's valve.

Unread postby Dicko » Fri Feb 28, 2014 3:16 am

Hi cp4ny,
From the sixth paragraph;

The problem with anodic protection in brewing is that the active metal is released to the environment (i.e.,
our beer).


and from the next paragraph ;

The problem with cathodic protection is that a breach in the plating will cause the more active metal underneath to corrode rapidly.

From my experience in the fitting and mechanical trades, nickel plated mild steel fittings were commonly used in hydraulics.

I understand the plight of not easily accessing stainless fittings but if it were me I would go the extra yards to source and use stainless.
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RE: Changing the BM's valve.

Unread postby cpa4ny » Fri Feb 28, 2014 3:59 am

Thank you Dicko - appreciate your input.
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Re: Changing the BM's valve.

Unread postby rnarzisi » Fri Sep 05, 2014 4:37 pm

To those looking to swap out the valve on their BM, and have access to Amazon, you might want to try this one: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003GSL38Q/ref=wms_ohs_product?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It is a pretty tight fit once the outside (the 3/4" threads) wrapped three times with teflon tape. I like this option because it is very low profile, unlike a lot of the reducer nipples. Low profile is good becuase the amount of torque put on the welded port on the BM when operating a value is pretty significant. I haven't measured it, but I can see it flex, so that's a little scary. Even with the low profile adapter, I still support the welded port with my other hard. Low profile also mitigates the risk of me snagging (or bashing my knee into) it whilst brewing.

If you are looking for a 1 1/2" tri-clamp option, which is what I eventually opted for, you can use this adapter here: https://www.brewershardware.com/1.5-Tri-Clover-X-3-4-Male-NPT.html. Again, three wraps of teflon tape, and no leaks.
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Re: Changing the BM's valve.

Unread postby bruulog » Sun Sep 07, 2014 7:26 am

This is probably helpful for main land EU residence.
Looking at this page: http://www.edelstahl24.com/en/valves.aspx
Did anyone figure out, which one of those is the correct valve to use and what else is needed to get the job done?
Can you please post part numbers or direct links to the product?

Cheers!
I make my own copper/ss chillers (immersion) - 20l & 50l and counterflow (cfc)
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Re: Changing the BM's valve.

Unread postby paulg » Sun Sep 07, 2014 9:10 am

I used this one ,reasonable price and uk supplier

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/121288051984? ... EBIDX%3AIT

and this valve .I know it says tapered thread but it fits ok .I use a bit of ptfe tape on the threads anyway to stop threads galling


http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1-2-Threaded- ... 4ab542e272
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Re: Changing the BM's valve.

Unread postby bruulog » Sun Sep 07, 2014 5:07 pm

paulg wrote:I used this one ,reasonable price and uk supplier

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/121288051984? ... EBIDX%3AIT

and this valve .I know it says tapered thread but it fits ok .I use a bit of ptfe tape on the threads anyway to stop threads galling


http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1-2-Threaded- ... 4ab542e272


I guess the way to go is form 3/4" (50 l BB has 1" female thread?) to 1/2". 0,5" is about 12,7 mm

I use external cooler (CFC), made out of 10 mm pipe. I use 13 mm hose between BB and chiller.
I recall from some other thread related to pumps, that if you use larger diameter hose from boiler to pump and smaller diamter hose from pump to chiller, it reduces the possibility of air bubbles in the pump-to-chiller line (or any line actually)
I am not 100% sure if getting a larger valve really helps me that much because liquid ends up in a 13 mm pipe any ways.
I make my own copper/ss chillers (immersion) - 20l & 50l and counterflow (cfc)
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Re: Changing the BM's valve.

Unread postby paulg » Mon Sep 08, 2014 9:51 am

bruulog
the thread on the 50 litre braumeister is 3/4" bspp ,this does have a diameter of about 1" as the thread is a measurement of the internal diameter not the external.strange I known.
I think the 20 litre is the same thread
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Re: Changing the BM's valve.

Unread postby niels » Mon Sep 08, 2014 10:24 am

paulg wrote:I think the 20 litre is the same thread

Jeps, both the 20l and the 50l use the same spigot/thread.

- Niels
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Re: Changing the BM's valve.

Unread postby paddye » Tue Sep 09, 2014 12:07 pm

I already had the ball valve but the rest I got from http://www.nero.co.uk/index.php/

Reducing nipple Part Number: RN1208 £3.48

Steel elbow Part Number: SE08 £3.25

Hose barb Part Number: HT08 £4.35
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Re: Changing the BM's valve.

Unread postby HopSong » Tue Sep 09, 2014 3:47 pm

It would be nice to get the correct thread.. if the 3/4" BSPP is actually what the Germans use.. but at what expense here in the US? Argghh

http://www.coleparmer.com/Product/Threa ... W-31830-54
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