Water - Evaporation Rates, Grain Absorption, Additions

How to get most out of brewing with your Braumeister? Help others and share your tips/best practices.

Water - Evaporation Rates, Grain Absorption, Additions

Unread postby Walt » Fri Jun 06, 2014 12:32 pm

Hi Everyone,

I've enjoyed about 5 brews with my 50L braumeister so far. I really am enjoying the system

I am trying to nail down some details, so I can get more repeatable and accurate results.

For a 50 L braumeister:

1.) How much water do people add to start?
2.) How much do people sparge with? Or add straight before the boil? (specify which please)
3.) What are you finding your grain absorption is?
4.) What about evaporation rates?
5.) Anyone know how much water fits on the bottom of the BM?
6.) Do people tip the machine to get more wort out?
7.) Anyone know what the tie rod markings represent (how many liters)?

Thanks!!

Walt
Walt
 
Posts: 1
Joined: Fri Jun 06, 2014 12:27 pm
Model: 50 litres

Re: Water - Evaporation Rates, Grain Absorption, Additions

Unread postby leosardinha » Fri Jun 06, 2014 1:12 pm

Maybe this can give you some aid, unfortunatelly I did not got much replies.

viewtopic.php?f=8&t=253
Baleia Brewing Co.
User avatar
leosardinha
 
Posts: 122
Joined: Fri Jan 24, 2014 10:06 am
Location: Maidenhead, UK
Model: 20 litres (2015)

Re: Water - Evaporation Rates, Grain Absorption, Additions

Unread postby royco » Fri Jun 20, 2014 6:40 am

leosardinha wrote: by leosardinha » 06 Jun 2014 03:12 pm

Maybe this can give you some aid, unfortunatelly I did not got much replies.

viewtopic.php?f=8&t=253


This has been puzzling me as I thought it was a function of volume given a constant heat input, hence the percentage boil-off.
However, this does not seem to be the case. This is an interesting post from another forum:

Boiloff rate is dependent on heat input and little else. The volume of water or wort being boiled has nothing to do with the evaporation rate. BTUs in translates into water boiled off, minus heat losses through the kettle walls. There probably is a minor contribution from surface area of the kettle and the humidity, wind speed etc, but the overwhelming effect is heat input to the wort when it's at the boiling point. High heat input equals vigorous boil and fast evaporation. Low heat input equals limp boil and slow evaporation. It takes 970 BTU to evaporate one pound of water, or 8050 BTU per gallon. Doesn't matter if your boiling one gallon or a million, as long as you input 8050 BTU over whatever time period, you will evaporate one gallon of water.

(I am not a member of the forum and could not get permission to use this, so apologise and thank the author for an interesting explanation)

Royco
royco
 
Posts: 394
Joined: Thu Mar 06, 2014 7:48 am
Location: Durban, South Africa
Model: 50 litres

Re: Water - Evaporation Rates, Grain Absorption, Additions

Unread postby paulg » Fri Jun 20, 2014 11:23 am

interesting royco
if thats the case then everybodies boil off should be similar for the same model BM, dependant on the boil feirceness.
then the major difference as I see it would be your altitude(ie boiling point of water) I live 650 meters about sea level and according to calculators my boiling point is 97.88c
when I brewed for the first time on my BM on tuesday my temperature never got above 98-99 but I had a vigorous boil resulting in about 6 litres/hour evaporation
this ignores such things as the hood or jacket .I assume they will reduce evaporation due to less loss via walls so effectively raising the value of BTU inputted
paulg
 
Posts: 197
Joined: Mon Apr 28, 2014 6:49 am
Location: corfu greece,formally suffolk/essex border england
Model: 50 litres

Re: Water - Evaporation Rates, Grain Absorption, Additions

Unread postby royco » Fri Jun 20, 2014 5:00 pm

Paulg, you don't think a jacket would increase the evaporation. There would be no wasted energy heating up your room. Also, the lid would have no effect on reducing evaporation as there would be no effective back pressure due to the large orifice. I have just deployed a sleeping bag and $20 SS bowl and for the first time had foam bubbling out the top so had to control the boil!

Re evaporation rates, the best way as many have said is to do a trial boil with water and measure. But I am lazy to do it as it seems such a waste of a good boil :wink:
royco
 
Posts: 394
Joined: Thu Mar 06, 2014 7:48 am
Location: Durban, South Africa
Model: 50 litres

Re: Water - Evaporation Rates, Grain Absorption, Additions

Unread postby royco » Fri Jun 20, 2014 5:03 pm

BTW we just love Corfu. How did you get that right, to end up in such a beautiful place. We were sailing in the Cyclades in September but next year want to do the Ionians. Can we pop in for a beer?
royco
 
Posts: 394
Joined: Thu Mar 06, 2014 7:48 am
Location: Durban, South Africa
Model: 50 litres

Re: Water - Evaporation Rates, Grain Absorption, Additions

Unread postby royco » Sun Jun 22, 2014 5:40 pm

In case anyone is remotely interested I did a 30L and 50L water boil in my BM50 and as expected the evaporation rate was the same -- 5L per 90min. This was with a sleeping bag and dome which should have increased the rate. We are 250m above sea level and the theoretical boil-off should have been much higher. Anyway now I know my numbers. :?
royco
 
Posts: 394
Joined: Thu Mar 06, 2014 7:48 am
Location: Durban, South Africa
Model: 50 litres

Re: Water - Evaporation Rates, Grain Absorption, Additions

Unread postby paulg » Mon Jun 23, 2014 2:14 pm

royco
yes my mistake I meant increase not decrease.
Ending up in Corfu happened because of coming on holiday many times and eventually buy a house here with the intension of retiring here but things changed so I came here a bit sooner than planned.
ps you would be welcome to a beer.
Paul
paulg
 
Posts: 197
Joined: Mon Apr 28, 2014 6:49 am
Location: corfu greece,formally suffolk/essex border england
Model: 50 litres

Re: Water - Evaporation Rates, Grain Absorption, Additions

Unread postby ChilliMayne » Wed Jun 25, 2014 7:25 pm

1.) How much water do people add to start?
I have a 50L BM too and I begin with 55L
2.) How much do people sparge with? Or add straight before the boil? (specify which please)
1L:1Kg after the mash , before the boil

3.) What are you finding your grain absorption is?

4.) What about evaporation rates?
min:5% - max:10%

5.) Anyone know how much water fits on the bottom of the BM?
6.) Do people tip the machine to get more wort out?
I began by not tipping, leaving at least 5L behind!( Dead space below the spigot/tap) because I really hate any bits in my beer, clarity is a big thing for me and I would rather lose on brewhouse yield than have spoiled beer. I have tipped it since to get more out because I have a conical fermentor and the trub over the primary ferment does settle itself below the tap to achieve clarity.
7.) Anyone know what the tie rod markings represent (how many liters)?
It's stated in your manual, page 11. Bottom 3 marks are from the bottom, 15L/20l/25L , top 3, 45/50/55
Brewing: Not much glamour but plenty of Glory!
ChilliMayne
 
Posts: 62
Joined: Fri Feb 14, 2014 1:13 pm
Location: Ireland
Model: 50 litres

Re: Water - Evaporation Rates, Grain Absorption, Additions

Unread postby royco » Fri Jun 27, 2014 7:54 am

ChilliMayne wrote:1.) How much water do people add to start?
I have a 50L BM too and I begin with 55L
2.) How much do people sparge with? Or add straight before the boil? (specify which please)
1L:1Kg after the mash , before the boil

3.) What are you finding your grain absorption is?

4.) What about evaporation rates?
min:5% - max:10%

5.) Anyone know how much water fits on the bottom of the BM?
6.) Do people tip the machine to get more wort out?
I began by not tipping, leaving at least 5L behind!( Dead space below the spigot/tap) because I really hate any bits in my beer, clarity is a big thing for me and I would rather lose on brewhouse yield than have spoiled beer. I have tipped it since to get more out because I have a conical fermentor and the trub over the primary ferment does settle itself below the tap to achieve clarity.
7.) Anyone know what the tie rod markings represent (how many liters)?
It's stated in your manual, page 11. Bottom 3 marks are from the bottom, 15L/20l/25L , top 3, 45/50/55


Hi ChilliMayne, some of these questions are covered under "Tie Rod Markings" etc
The BM50 short pipe is for 25L, not 20L as I found after getting one brew wrong! The lower markings are 20, 25 and 30L.

Read the discussion on "No Sparge" in case you want to give it a go. It works well and makes brew day so much easier. Otherwise the water amount recommended in the manual (RTFM :wink: ) is a good starting point.
Tipping is good and any trub that gets into the fermenter will settle out. Then if you go to secondary for a few days and cold-crash to 0°C for a day before racking you will get very clear beer. NOTE: put 50mm blocks under the feet before tipping so the controller doesn't get damaged. Why do BM not make the legs longer, or supply bolt-on legs if shipping volume is an issue?
And on the tipping score, if you tip then one foot will come down on the power cable. Why do they not strap the cable higher up?

Royco
royco
 
Posts: 394
Joined: Thu Mar 06, 2014 7:48 am
Location: Durban, South Africa
Model: 50 litres


Return to General / Tips and Tricks

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: Bing [Bot], mrjogud and 2 guests