Erratic pump breaks then dead pump on older 20L.

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Re: Erratic pump breaks then dead pump on older 20L.

Unread postby mashy » Thu Mar 14, 2019 5:57 am

IMO Aziztan Has it banged to rights there. I reckon this Temps too.

I personally do not think it is necessary to boil the beejeebers out of the immersion coil. I have a copper one, it is kept clean, I wash it before I use it. And put it in at the end of the boil. Never had a problem.
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Re: Erratic pump breaks then dead pump on older 20L.

Unread postby mashy » Thu Mar 14, 2019 5:57 am

IMO Aziztan Has it banged to rights there. I reckon this Temps too.

I personally do not think it is necessary to boil the beejeebers out of the immersion coil. I have a copper one, it is kept clean, I wash it before I use it. And put it in at the end of the boil. Never had a problem.
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Re: Erratic pump breaks then dead pump on older 20L.

Unread postby IPA » Thu Mar 14, 2019 8:19 am

aziztan wrote:sounds like the controller timed out as it wasn't hitting the 100c boil temp because of 2 things. 1. The wort chiller has knocked a few degrees off and 2. the freezing 7c cold outside where it's operating.

Ive experienced this one time when I had sparge too heavily with Cold water and dropping the overall temp while the BM trying to bring it to boil.

If the controller doesn't recognise a temp increase over a period of time, it will deactivate the program.

Hopefully this was the case for you.

Cheers
Aziz

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Sparging whilst boiling interesting idea. How can you do that ?
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Re: Erratic pump breaks then dead pump on older 20L.

Unread postby aziztan » Thu Mar 14, 2019 9:36 am

Sparge while the BM is bringing the wort up to boiling temp, in case there was any confusion. I assume most people would do this as it doesn't involve any extra effort.

Last batch was a Pacific ale (6.5kg grain bill) and run off from the sparge was @1.020, so there's some sugar in there yet - That's with cold water (pre mineralised with salts). Came away with 27L @1.060 going into fermenter.

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Re: Erratic pump breaks then dead pump on older 20L.

Unread postby IPA » Thu Mar 14, 2019 1:15 pm

I have re-read your post and realise that I completely misunderstood what you were saying. Apologies
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Re: Erratic pump breaks then dead pump on older 20L.

Unread postby Cap'n Greybeard » Fri Mar 15, 2019 2:17 pm

mashy wrote:IMO Aziztan Has it banged to rights there. I reckon this Temps too.

I personally do not think it is necessary to boil the beejeebers out of the immersion coil. I have a copper one, it is kept clean, I wash it before I use it. And put it in at the end of the boil. Never had a problem.


Thanks :cheers:

I did find a reference on another thread concerning my issue and it appears that you and Aziz were correct in confirming my hunch. According to the post (though it didn't cite the documentation) the timer does pause when the boil temp drops below 96C and resumes when the boil temp recovers, but I still don't know if it just picks up at a lower temperature than the set temp after three minutes like the documentation states for initial boil. I seldom reach a full 100C roiling boil and normally I have a gentle simmering boil at 99C. That's O.K. though since I try to observe LoDO processes on the hot side as well as cold side of brewing. If you minimize dissolved O2 in the wort during mashing, the precursors to DMS don't develop and diacetyl is not formed. Therefore a roiling boil isn't necessary to "drive it off", as the common belief goes. In fact, a roiling boil re-introduces D.O. into the wort, thus causing diacetyl to form, according to the German brewers who advocate the low oxygen brewing techniques. Even Fix and Palmer are starting to acknowledge the efficacy of LoDO brewing, but old habits and beliefs die slowly.

Regarding the immersion coil, I recently switched to a stainless steel one, since (according to the Germans) copper oxide on the coil also introduces significant amounts of O2 into the wort, whether it is chilling or boiling. And I agree about the cleaning and sanitation of the coil. The SS is much easier, just a squirt or two of Star San and it's good to go. The problem with this particular brew session was that I also pre-boil my mash water to drive off dissolved oxygen, thus I have to chill it down to mash in temperature before I can mash. So, my 50' stainless steel coil (full of water) sat out in 7C/mid 40s F temperature while I mashed, sparged and boiled (about three hours total). That cold-soaked coil took quite a bit of heat energy out that 23 liters of boiling wort, at least enough to drop the temperature of the boil below 96C for about ten minutes until the heating element could recover it.

Sorry all. I really didn't mean to hijack the thread. But thanks to all for helping me resolve my concern.

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