Removing the tap on the 10L Braumeister

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Removing the tap on the 10L Braumeister

Unread postby aowron » Fri Mar 23, 2018 6:29 pm

Hi,

So I've been having a quite a lot of infected brews lately and replaced everything, but still seen them coming back. Today I stumbled upon http://brulosophy.com/2014/11/13/proble ... the-hobby/, and realized that I've never cleaned the tap on my Braumeister. So, I decided to remove it, which was easier said than done. I've gotten myself a 10mm hex key, which fits in the hole inside the tap, but it just won't bulge. Is there anyone here who has attempted this before? If that is the case, how do I proceed to remove the tap? (it seems like the 10L version tap is different from the ones on the bigger models)

Picture of the fitting on the inside:
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Re: Removing the tap on the 10L Braumeister

Unread postby gandalf the brew » Fri Mar 23, 2018 6:52 pm

Yes I removed mine when it leaked. It is just brute force on the hex key whilst holding the tap wrapped in cloth with some plumber grips.
Mine was secured with some form of thread locking sealant.
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Re: Removing the tap on the 10L Braumeister

Unread postby aowron » Fri Mar 23, 2018 7:01 pm

gandalf the brew wrote:Yes I removed mine when it leaked. It is just brute force on the hex key whilst holding the tap wrapped in cloth with some plumber grips.
Mine was secured with some form of thread locking sealant.


Thanks for the quick reply! Don't have any plumber grips, although I do have a wrench. Did you pull the hex key to the left or right? (seen from when standing in front of the tap) I was thinking of "lefty loosy, right tighty", but that would depend on from which side it has been screwed in.

Edit: managed to remove it; heating it with a hairdryer helped a lot.
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Re: Removing the tap on the 10L Braumeister

Unread postby mashy » Sat Mar 24, 2018 6:17 am

Do you what to step through your process so we can work out why you are having infection problems.

Also what cleaner are you using?
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Re: Removing the tap on the 10L Braumeister

Unread postby IPA » Sat Mar 24, 2018 8:33 am

Make sure you use the threadlock sealer when you re install it.
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Re: Removing the tap on the 10L Braumeister

Unread postby aowron » Sat Mar 24, 2018 12:07 pm

mashy wrote:Do you what to step through your process so we can work out why you are having infection problems.

Also what cleaner are you using?


Used to use VWP in the braumeister, but noticed, when getting a brew bucket (from the brewbucket instructions), that chlorine based cleaners don't play well with stainless, thus, I am now using pbw once every few brews, otherwise, I'm using dish soap. I have not been able to properly clean the tap, so I solved that by getting a new 3/8" bspp ball valve + hosebarb elbow (measured the thread on the fitting, and it seems like the Braumeister 10 is using 3/8" bspp). I'd rather have a valve I can disassemble and boil after each brew (yes, I pretty much boil any equipment I can boil, just to be on the safe side).

IPA wrote:Make sure you use the threadlock sealer when you re install it.


I have gotten myself some thread tape, do you think that would work? (it should work with NPT threads, although I haven't been able to gather whether it will work with bspp threads; why can't they just use NPT like we do here in Sweden...)

Edit: If I manage to get this to work, I'll post the setup in modifications; hopefully, it should be useful for other Braumeister 10L users.
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Re: Removing the tap on the 10L Braumeister

Unread postby gandalf the brew » Sat Mar 24, 2018 2:39 pm

Like your thoughts, all the SS connections on my entire brew set-up are sealed with PTF tape and I've not had a leak since, it also enables the easy strip down of the system for a PBW clean.
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Re: Removing the tap on the 10L Braumeister

Unread postby mashy » Sat Mar 24, 2018 3:53 pm

Get some TFR (traffic film remover) aka truck wash dilute it 50/50 be put it is a spray bottle. Use gloves. Spray this on and scrub with a dish brush (or brand new bog brush) rinse properly.

You will be amazed.

If you are of doubt. Boil your Brew water first.

I never ever put the BM away wet & never leave the lid on. I hang mine on the handle and throw a towel over the lot.

Clean your pump properly, by disassembling.

BUT.. Consider also that it could very well be getting an infection from some other kit. Hose / paddles / fermenter. I would suspect that before the BM.

Truck wash is brilliant on every thing EXCEPT ALUMINIUM .... which it dissolves.

Did I mention wear gloves, don't not breathe in the spray. Do not soak.

PS. Didn't mean this to sound preachy, and if you read my other posts I am a looong way from being a hygiene freak.
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Re: Removing the tap on the 10L Braumeister

Unread postby IPA » Sat Mar 24, 2018 4:40 pm

aowron wrote:
mashy wrote:Do you what to step through your process so we can work out why you are having infection problems.

Also what cleaner are you using?


Used to use VWP in the braumeister, but noticed, when getting a brew bucket (from the brewbucket instructions), that chlorine based cleaners don't play well with stainless, thus, I am now using pbw once every few brews, otherwise, I'm using dish soap. I have not been able to properly clean the tap, so I solved that by getting a new 3/8" bspp ball valve + hosebarb elbow (measured the thread on the fitting, and it seems like the Braumeister 10 is using 3/8" bspp). I'd rather have a valve I can disassemble and boil after each brew (yes, I pretty much boil any equipment I can boil, just to be on the safe side).

IPA wrote:Make sure you use the threadlock sealer when you re install it.


I have gotten myself some thread tape, do you think that would work? (it should work with NPT threads, although I haven't been able to gather whether it will work with bspp threads; why can't they just use NPT like we do here in Sweden...)

Edit: If I manage to get this to work, I'll post the setup in modifications; hopefully, it should be useful for other Braumeister 10L users.


This is what you need especially when altering the pipework on a BM. Its seals and locks any thread up to 25 mm without tightening in 60 seconds. Ideal when pipework has to be aligned like the pump angle on a BM.
https://www.toutpourlabiere.com/store-s ... turers_id=
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Re: Removing the tap on the 10L Braumeister

Unread postby aowron » Sat Mar 24, 2018 6:05 pm

mashy wrote:Get some TFR (traffic film remover) aka truck wash dilute it 50/50 be put it is a spray bottle. Use gloves. Spray this on and scrub with a dish brush (or brand new bog brush) rinse properly.

You will be amazed.

If you are of doubt. Boil your Brew water first.

I never ever put the BM away wet & never leave the lid on. I hang mine on the handle and throw a towel over the lot.

Clean your pump properly, by disassembling.

BUT.. Consider also that it could very well be getting an infection from some other kit. Hose / paddles / fermenter. I would suspect that before the BM.

Truck wash is brilliant on every thing EXCEPT ALUMINIUM .... which it dissolves.

Did I mention wear gloves, don't not breathe in the spray. Do not soak.

PS. Didn't mean this to sound preachy, and if you read my other posts I am a looong way from being a hygiene freak.


Always disassembling the pump after brewing; might not be cleaning it well enough though. Anyway, anything that the water touches during the boil should get disinfected, shouldn't it? (pediococcus for example dies at 60 or 80 degrees if I remember correctly) The problem I can see with the tap is that it probably doesn't get hot enough, considering that I, during a brew, can touch it without properly scolding myself.

Regarding the fermenter etc. already replaced that once, which is what leads me to believe that it is the tap (still using the same bottles, but they are always sterilized in the oven according to the guidelines in "How to brew", and the flip-top caps are boiled before being used). The paddle is not replaced, but it only ever touches the wort when it's at boiling temperatures, thus, even if it had contaminants on it, they die pretty much instantly.

The traffic film remover, is that to get rid of the staining in the BM?

IPA wrote:This is what you need especially when altering the pipework on a BM. Its seals and locks any thread up to 25 mm without tightening in 60 seconds. Ideal when pipework has to be aligned like the pump angle on a BM.
https://www.toutpourlabiere.com/store-s ... turers_id=


But removing the threadlocked bolt was a total pain in the ass... I'll try with thread tape first, if that doesn't work, I guess I'll move on to a threadlocker instead.

Edit: I realized, regarding the suggestion on replacing the fermenters, that you don't have the backstory to this whole infection. I've had a thread going for a while at homebrewtalk: https://www.homebrewtalk.com/forum/thre ... on.635034/
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Re: Removing the tap on the 10L Braumeister

Unread postby mashy » Sun Mar 25, 2018 11:30 am

The traffic film remover, is that to get rid of the staining in the BM?


Yup. a stunning cleaner.



I'll try with thread tape first, if that doesn't work,


The Loctite.55 Pipe Sealing Cord is superb - better than PTFE tape, but will take a couple of goes to master.


Is the infection is EVERY bottle or just some (might tell you where it getting in?)
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Re: Removing the tap on the 10L Braumeister

Unread postby aowron » Sun Mar 25, 2018 6:14 pm

mashy wrote:
The traffic film remover, is that to get rid of the staining in the BM?


Yup. a stunning cleaner.



I'll try with thread tape first, if that doesn't work,


The Loctite.55 Pipe Sealing Cord is superb - better than PTFE tape, but will take a couple of goes to master.


Is the infection is EVERY bottle or just some (might tell you where it getting in?)


Seeing it in every bottle, as I did before replacing all my fermentation and bottling equipment (well, except for the bottles), so supposedly, this is the same infection. This is why this leads me to believe that it is the tap; I have never scrubbed it properly with a bottle brush (don't have one which is small enough).
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Re: Removing the tap on the 10L Braumeister

Unread postby mashy » Mon Mar 26, 2018 7:18 am

Hmm. Not sure. It's certainly present before bottling then.

Working backwards, how long do you store the beer after fermentation?

I suppose what I am saying is... I do, 2 weeks primary fermentation 20°C then rack it to another clean fermenter for 2 weeks maturing chilled at 3°c. Then bottled and returned to 20°c for 2 weeks.

What's your process? Where? What temps?
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Re: Removing the tap on the 10L Braumeister

Unread postby aowron » Mon Mar 26, 2018 4:15 pm

With the stainless brew bucket + temperature control system I just got, I do a two week primary (or maybe it could be seen as primary/secondary in the same vessel). The temperature differs a bit depending on the yeast, but I usually run about 3-4 days (after taking a gravity test, making sure that about I'm about 80-90% of the points have fermented compared to the estimate in Beersmith) on somewhere around 17-19 degrees (Celsius, depends a bit on the yeast) and the just push it up to whatever room temperature I have (usually around 22) to slightly increase the diacetyl cleanup rate.

The pellicle appears after a few days on bottle (although, I think I saw hints of it in the fermenter when I sacrificed the latest batch to the toilet gods).

So considering that I'll probably will have to sanitize the brew bucket too, would you reckon just using pbw and star san would be enough, or would it be preferable to scold it with boiling water? And of course, I'll replace anything else that cannot be boiled or sanitized by heat (+ the hose I use with the bottling wand, even though the hose can be boiled).
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Re: Removing the tap on the 10L Braumeister

Unread postby rmklaw » Mon Mar 26, 2018 4:54 pm

To me it is more likely to be the Brewbucket than the BM. I believe that coming out of the BM is sterilized (provided that your transferring hose is sanitized. However, there are plenty of places where you can get contamination in the Brew bucket. I use the Chronical and completely take it apart after every fermentation, clean it and store it. Also, on brew day, I fill the Chronical with StarSan and let it sit for a couple of hours, and the transfer the StarSan to a keg to sanitize.
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