leosardinha wrote:Follow this proccedure and I guarantee you will have crystal clear beer.
1) Drop fermenter vessel temp to 0C.
2) Prepare a solution with 12g of gelatin(unflavored) for 250ml of water @67C.
3) Open the fermenter, do a gentle whirpool and drop the solution on the middle of the whirlpool.
4) Close the fermenter and let it rest for at least 48 hours.
5) Keg it and force carb.
This is what you will achieve.
From my experience light beers get really really clear, the hoppy and stronger beers get clear also.
The one in the picture is only 4.5% abv
Wobbly wrote:Hi Kstiglich
Running your pump will undo all the good work that your kettle finings have done as all the break material that has coagulated will be smashed up by the pump impeller.
I have experienced this exact point - clear wort with lumps of break material floating in at the end of the boil but at the end of the chill with an immersion chiller and stirring the wort to improve chiller performance the wort becomes very cloudy with little evidence of any clumps of coagulated break material
From what I have read you need to treat the "Hot Break" as gentle as possible and whirlpool while the wort is still hot as detailed in this article:
I like you have been seeking a "clearer" beer and less trub in the fermentation vessel and to this end I have sort comments/advise on another forum on ways to limit the transfer of hot and cold break from the BM to the fermentation vessel (I use a Williamswarn Personal Brewery)
From my research and comments on the other forum a significant factor that results in less kettle break transfer into the fermentation vessel is to get a good whirlpool and to achieve this it is best to whirlpool the wort "Hot" at the end of the boil as detailed above. All to do with the density of break material and viscosity of the hot wort the greater the difference the better the separation.
That may be well and good but what do you do with the "Clear Hot Wort" I guess you can rack it off/out of the BM after allowing a time for the Hot Whirlpool to settle either using a syphon or carefully draining from the BM tap into a separate container (spare fermenter) and the cool it or alternatively you could consider using an external pump and some sort of filter such as a Hop Rocket and in line chiller to cool the hot wort on the way to your fermenter.
I have recently purchased a Bilchmann Hop Back and intend to use this in a few ways
1) as an inline hop infuser/filter filled with hop flowers and some hop pellets and place either some SS pot scrubbies in the bottom (top) of the Hop Rocket or some Swiss-voile over the top filter plate to filter any hop pellet material before it passes through the HR and in this situation I would whirlpool the hot wort and then after allowing some time for the break material to settle in a cone then connect the Hop Rocket/Hop Back to the BM as follows BM>Hop back>chiller> Fermenter
2) as above but try using some Rice Hulls as the filter medium instead of the hop material
3) recirculate the cooling wort back into the BM as follows BM>pump/HR/chiller>BM etc until the contents of the BM has reached target temperature and then to direct the chiller discharge to the fermentation vessel as follows BM>HR>Chiller>Fermenter. I estimate that by doing this I could cycle the total contents of the BM 4 or 5 times through hop rocket/filter so should end up with minimum hot and cold break and very clear wort going into the fermentation vessel
I'm away on holidays for the next couple of months so it will be some time before I can comment on the success or failure of my trials
Hope this is of some assistance
Cheers
wayne
kstiglich wrote:...when do you recommend to drop fermenter temp to 0ºC?
niels wrote:kstiglich wrote:...when do you recommend to drop fermenter temp to 0ºC?
Which yeast did you use and what was the starting gravity? A lot depends on the yeast strain as some strains could be quick starters but slow finishers.
You can either leave the beer in the primary for about 10 days and expect it to be finished by then, but I recommend taking a sample to measure (and taste). If the gravity is close to the expected FG and doesn't lower in 3 days it should be good to either move to secondary or to cold crash.
I never used gelatine or any products to clear my beer. Simply lager it cold for a few weeks and you get crystal clear beer too. But it means you'll have to wait a bit longer, of course. Brewing is a patience game.![]()
- Niels
kstiglich wrote:I am using Saison Belle Ale from Danstar. My SG is 1.058, and my estimated FG is 1.010.
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