To BM or not to BM, that is the question

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Re: To BM or not to BM, that is the question

Unread postby HopSong » Thu Dec 18, 2014 1:42 am

Don't make the CU hood any more? Wow.. that means I have a collectors item. Yeeee Haw.

Re: To BM or not to BM, that is the question

Unread postby dinnerstick » Thu Dec 18, 2014 7:20 am

Nesto wrote:If you do use LME, honey or sugar, I've found it best to draw off wort from the boil to mix in. With sugar, you avoid burning it on the coils. And with honey or LME, I've found that if you pour it directly in the BM the pump likes to suck it all up before it dissolves and gets a little gummy.

good tip. with DME it's not a problem, i think it's one of the most bizarre substances, it won't pour out of the bag at all and then suddenly all comes out at once in a big avalanche that overshoots your weighing dish and makes a mess of your scale and countertop, then it either sticks to everything by static charge, or puffs up in the air as dust, or forms weird clumps that suddenly and magically dissolve. but it largely floats on the wort until you get it stirred in. for sugar or kandij siroop (candi sugar/syrup), i will definitely adopt your practice

3LB wrote:Hood: does it mean that if you have a stronger boil, you can have a shorter one? (Eg 60 minutes rather than 90?)

hmmm... more research required on that one. i wouldn't bet on it but you never know until you try it and compare. Remember that with DMS, the cooling rate of the wort can also affect the final DMS content of the beer; I am led to believe by those more knowledgable than myself that if you boil off most of the DMS precursor (SMM) but allow the wort to sit at high near-boiling temp for a time, more DMS can be formed from the residual SMM. (How to Brew- John Palmer)
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Re: To BM or not to BM, that is the question

Unread postby 3LB » Thu Dec 18, 2014 7:31 am

dinnerstick wrote:[...]with DME it's not a problem, i think it's one of the most bizarre substances[...]

Yep, that's certainly true. With my kit brews I've added the stuff when the wort was around 40 degrees C (tip from another homebrew forum), in other words, adding to the FV:
* 2l of cold water
* then kit syrup
* then 1l of boiling water
* then all LDME or kit enhancer (50/50 LDME and dextrose)
* continue adding cold water, mixing all the time until kit volume

But this is hardly BM related... :)

dinnerstick wrote:[...]more research required on that one[...]

Hm, interesting. Will look into/read up on this some more and maybe run an experiment once I get my AG equipment.
Thanks for pointing it out!
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Re: To BM or not to BM, that is the question

Unread postby BrauTim » Thu Dec 18, 2014 10:47 am

I have a stainless lid from a 70L cookpot with holes cut around the centre handle and have found that I can control the [vigorous] boil very easily by sliding the lid on top of the BM to create an extra gap and allow extra steam to escape. I have no experience with the Speidel hood but looking at the design I would consider it to be inferior to a flatter lid for a couple for reasons:

1. The price (a bit obvious).
2. It's easy to see the boil with a flat lid with holes in the centre, I can imagine it is more difficult to see through the Speidel domed chimney design especially with lots of steam getting in the way.
3. It's easy to slide the lid around on top of the BM and it stays in place, the dome looks like it may slip off or be more difficult to manoeuvre!
4. No handles! How do you get a grip on it when it's at 90C ?

Domed lid owners may be able to correct me on these assumptions though. The main advantage I can see with the chimney design is attaching ducting and an inline fan to remove steam (but then you can't see what the boil is doing), whereas with a flat lid you need to suspend the ducting above the lid.
Last edited by BrauTim on Thu Dec 18, 2014 10:52 am, edited 1 time in total.
To brew or not to brew, that would be a stupid question !
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