Profile Beersmith2 HELP

Do you need help setting up your favourite brewing software? Or help out other with the lessons you learned while calculating recipes for your Braumeister.

Profile Beersmith2 HELP

Unread postby airborn » Sun Jan 11, 2015 10:50 am

I need some good advice on creating my first equipment profile i Beersmith2.

As i understand the profile must be pretty equal to all Braumeister 20 liters but with a possible difference in boiling-time and losses in fermenter an to trub, boiloff, effiency and so on!!

As a start I need some of your experience

If I would like to use the Braumeister fully - without overdoing or pressing it to the limit - how would/could my equipment-profile look?
I am planning to boil for 60 minutes with my first recipe
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Re: Profile Beersmith2 HELP

Unread postby stokie brewer » Sun Jan 11, 2015 3:35 pm

airborn wrote:I need some good advice on creating my first equipment profile i Beersmith2.

As i understand the profile must be pretty equal to all Braumeister 20 liters but with a possible difference in boiling-time and losses in fermenter an to trub, boiloff, effiency and so on!!

As a start I need some of your experience

If I would like to use the Braumeister fully - without overdoing or pressing it to the limit - how would/could my equipment-profile look?
I am planning to boil for 60 minutes with my first recipe


This thread might help.

viewtopic.php?f=11&t=123&hilit=20l+profile
A fine beer may be judged with only one sip, but it's better to be thoroughly sure.
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Re: Profile Beersmith2 HELP

Unread postby stokie brewer » Sun Jan 11, 2015 3:49 pm

stokie brewer wrote:
airborn wrote:I need some good advice on creating my first equipment profile i Beersmith2.

As i understand the profile must be pretty equal to all Braumeister 20 liters but with a possible difference in boiling-time and losses in fermenter an to trub, boiloff, effiency and so on!!

As a start I need some of your experience

If I would like to use the Braumeister fully - without overdoing or pressing it to the limit - how would/could my equipment-profile look?
I am planning to boil for 60 minutes with my first recipe


This thread might help.

viewtopic.php?f=11&t=123&hilit=20l+profile


Apologies didn't read your post properly :roll: are you after a profile for the standard 50l pipe or the short 25l one?
A fine beer may be judged with only one sip, but it's better to be thoroughly sure.
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Re: Profile Beersmith2 HELP

Unread postby airborn » Sun Jan 11, 2015 4:49 pm

I want at start-profile for my BM20 L - just to make Beersmidt 2 usable - and maybe understandable :(

so I vill read the tread - Thank you
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Re: Profile Beersmith2 HELP

Unread postby airborn » Sun Jan 11, 2015 4:56 pm

What does: top up water for kettle - mean? - sparge?
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Re: Profile Beersmith2 HELP

Unread postby Nesto » Mon Jan 12, 2015 5:54 am

Hi airborn, I particularly like my post from the thread stokie posted :)
viewtopic.php?f=11&t=123&hilit=20l+profile#p3669

Top up water is extra water you add after the mash (and after sparging) if you need more volume. You should generally set this to 0 for recipes (a least to start with). As one of the "experienced" BM brewers, I've been convinced by others (Lac and Lylo - see this thread) to stop sparging. The Braumeister method is continuously circulating water and many of us have found efficiency can actually be better without sparging. By using the full volume of water from the beginning of the mash, sugars are extracted very well and you can save the effort (which I admit is small) of sparging and save the extra volume calculation confusion.

But if you do sparge, that is a step you add to your mash profile. Like in this one...
Screenshot 2015-01-11 21.50.53.png
BM20 Mash Profile with sparge


Keep asking questions - lots of help around here. :beer:
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Re: Profile Beersmith2 HELP

Unread postby suchidog » Mon Jan 12, 2015 7:45 am

Hey Nesto how many litres of water are you generally starting with?

I am all for not sparging, but living in North Queensland if I don't use at least 27litres + 6 litres of sparge I don't get enough volume to fill a fermentor due to evaporation.
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Re: Profile Beersmith2 HELP

Unread postby johnrm » Mon Jan 12, 2015 7:51 am

Is mash pH increased if you add more water at the start of mash?
Top up water dilutes your wort.
Running that same volume of water through your grist will rinse out any residual sugars.
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Re: Profile Beersmith2 HELP

Unread postby johnrm » Mon Jan 12, 2015 8:01 am

BTW, if running water through grist at end of mash, make sure this is at 76C or whatever your final mash temp was.
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Re: Profile Beersmith2 HELP

Unread postby Andy_Chil » Mon Jan 12, 2015 8:09 am

Nesto wrote:Hi airborn, I particularly like my post from the thread stokie posted :)
viewtopic.php?f=11&t=123&hilit=20l+profile#p3669

Top up water is extra water you add after the mash (and after sparging) if you need more volume. You should generally set this to 0 for recipes (a least to start with). As one of the "experienced" BM brewers, I've been convinced by others (Lac and Lylo - see this thread) to stop sparging. The Braumeister method is continuously circulating water and many of us have found efficiency can actually be better without sparging. By using the full volume of water from the beginning of the mash, sugars are extracted very well and you can save the effort (which I admit is small) of sparging and save the extra volume calculation confusion.

But if you do sparge, that is a step you add to your mash profile. Like in this one...
Screenshot 2015-01-11 21.50.53.png


Keep asking questions - lots of help around here. :beer:


Hi Nesto,

I have had similar issues with Beersmith as airborn over the past 12 months.
Based on your advise, can I assume that you do something like the following:
23 litre Batch
Fill BM with Batch Size (23) + Boil Off (3.4) + Grain Abs (lets say 4) = 30.4litres
or do you add extra water at another step like pre or post boil?

Ive been playing around with Beersmith this afternoon and with the various profiles and tips here and I think I am a lot closer!

Cheers,

Andy
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Re: Profile Beersmith2 HELP

Unread postby Nesto » Mon Jan 12, 2015 10:16 am

Mash pH goes up with more water, but I use EZ Water Calculator to account for it when I calculate brewing salts to add - the effect is pretty small.

I'll give you a set of actual volume measurements for a 1.049 OG wheat beer...
4.6kg malt
Mash in with 30.4 liters
Losses:
Grain absorption 3.4 liters
Evaporation 5.1 liters (90 minute boil)
Cooling shrinkage .9 liters
Loss to trub .7 liters
Fermenter loss 1 liter
Volumes:
Pre-boil volume 27.0 liters
Post-boil volume 21.9 liters
Into fermenter 20.3 liters
Into keg 19.3 liters

Since I don't sparge and I'm above ~28 liters at mash in, I fill the BM with the full amount of water to heat and treat it, then when I'm ready to mash in, draw off a few liters. Around 31 to 32 liters, your malt pipe will either already be submerged, or quickly overflow once you start pouring the grain in. After you mash in, put the screens, hold down bar and wing nut on. Start the mashing program to check the flow. Then pour the water you just drew off back into the BM. Your BM will operate fine even if the malt pipe is submerged. I have found my efficiency is actually better without sparging. You can just let it drain while you're heating up to boil and it's easy peasy!
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Re: Profile Beersmith2 HELP

Unread postby redwing_al » Mon Jan 12, 2015 6:26 pm

Nesto wrote:Mash pH goes up with more water, but I use EZ Water Calculator to account for it when I calculate brewing salts to add - the effect is pretty small.

I'll give you a set of actual volume measurements for a 1.049 OG wheat beer...
4.6kg malt
Mash in with 30.4 liters
Losses:
Grain absorption 3.4 liters
Evaporation 5.1 liters (90 minute boil)
Cooling shrinkage .9 liters
Loss to trub .7 liters
Fermenter loss 1 liter
Volumes:
Pre-boil volume 27.0 liters
Post-boil volume 21.9 liters
Into fermenter 20.3 liters
Into keg 19.3 liters

Since I don't sparge and I'm above ~28 liters at mash in, I fill the BM with the full amount of water to heat and treat it, then when I'm ready to mash in, draw off a few liters. Around 31 to 32 liters, your malt pipe will either already be submerged, or quickly overflow once you start pouring the grain in. After you mash in, put the screens, hold down bar and wing nut on. Start the mashing program to check the flow. Then pour the water you just drew off back into the BM. Your BM will operate fine even if the malt pipe is submerged. I have found my efficiency is actually better without sparging. You can just let it drain while you're heating up to boil and it's easy peasy!


Great example, Nesto!
Eagle & Schmitt Brewing
Keg 1:
Keg 2:
Keg 3:
Keg 4:
FastFermenting Vessel 1: ~
FastFermenting Vessel 2: ~
Next Up: Don't Wheaty, Be Hoppy (Wheat IPA)

Total BM Brews: 10
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Re: Profile Beersmith2 HELP

Unread postby Andy_Chil » Wed Jan 14, 2015 10:42 am

Hi everbody,

After frigging around with Beersmith for two hours and following all your advice, last nights brew numbers were 100% bang on.
Thanks heaps for all of your collective wisdom.

Andy_Chil :cheers:
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Re: Profile Beersmith2 HELP

Unread postby airborn » Wed Jan 14, 2015 1:35 pm

Great Nesto

I think I will try your way but
sometimes I've read about people who stir the grains in a break during the mashing.
The reason should be to awoid dry spots or something like that.

In your way that is not an option - but maybe it's not necessary
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Re: Profile Beersmith2 HELP

Unread postby Nesto » Wed Jan 14, 2015 7:00 pm

airborn wrote:Great Nesto

I think I will try your way but
sometimes I've read about people who stir the grains in a break during the mashing.
The reason should be to awoid dry spots or something like that.

In your way that is not an option - but maybe it's not necessary

True, it would be hard to stir mid-mash with ~30 liters or so at mash in. I stir well at mash in and don't ever stir mid-mash. Maybe it's the lazy in me ;) , but I still get excellent efficiency.
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