newby

Welcome to the Braumeisters.net forums. Please read the rules and introduce yourself.

Re: newby

Unread postby cpa4ny » Wed Apr 30, 2014 5:25 am

The usual recommendation is to have a 8-gallon pot for 5 gallons of final product.

Foam inhibitors are great - especially for boiling DME for starters.
_______________________
20L BM user from Singapore
User avatar
cpa4ny
 
Posts: 398
Joined: Tue Jan 21, 2014 12:54 am
Location: Singapore
Model: 20 litres

Re: newby

Unread postby BrauTim » Wed Apr 30, 2014 8:50 am

I find throwing the hops in just before the foam gets too high calms it down for the rest if the boil.
To brew or not to brew, that would be a stupid question !
User avatar
BrauTim
 
Posts: 519
Joined: Sun Feb 02, 2014 1:03 pm
Location: England
Model: 50 litres

Re: newby

Unread postby paulg » Wed Apr 30, 2014 10:53 am

thanks for that info
I have just input the height and width into biabacus and it gives a volume of 42.3 litres
with a recipe using a little over 5 kilos malt ,OG 1.46 23 litres into fermenter, the total mash size shows 38.72 total water 34.46, so if I hold back some liquor for the sparge (sat 4-5 litres )that would leave about 30 litres .it would be interesting to see if the element can cope with this.
when I had a 40 litre urn with a similar size element I had no problems boiling.I live about 600 meters above sea level and brew in my workshop.boiling point is about 98 c
paulg
 
Posts: 196
Joined: Mon Apr 28, 2014 6:49 am
Location: corfu greece,formally suffolk/essex border england
Model: 50 litres

Re: newby

Unread postby swiggingpig » Thu May 01, 2014 7:21 pm

BrauTim wrote:I find throwing the hops in just before the foam gets too high calms it down for the rest if the boil.

Image
20L BM with Jacket and Copper Hood
User avatar
swiggingpig
 
Posts: 61
Joined: Sat Feb 01, 2014 11:44 am
Location: England
Model: 20 litres

Previous

Return to Welcome!

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: Google [Bot] and 1 guest

cron